Site Vindolanda Context Vindolanda praetorium of Cerialis VIA (yard) Excavation year 1985 Site phase

Dimensions L. 110 mm W. 240 mm Preservation state organic Fabric structure 2/2 twill Twill pattern diamond Pattern repeat after 14 of (1) warp, 9 of (2) weft [d2l/d2r]

Colours Sewing yarn 1 very dark. Sewing yarn 2 very dark brown. Other features Medium to dark brown. On cloth more surface wear in patches on Side A than Side B; on curved hem wear/felting more visible on Side B than Side A; straight hem very abraded along outer edge. First of four pieces of brown, worn 2/2 diamond twill, each with damaged straight hems or seams, one with a curved hem with ?decorative sewing. Not clear how pieces fitted together, but assemblage consisted of patches, probably sewn together: curved hem might reflect a neck or arm aperture. Could be subarmalis? Use wear ✓

Description Curved hem (fig 00): raw cloth edge folded back once on to Side A and sewn down at inner edge with overstitches (a few remain, worked S, at c.5mm intervals), in degraded 3-ply thread (c.1mm thick), S-plied from weak Z-spun hairy very dark wool yarns; hem width 17-22mm, thickness 4-5mm. 2 parallel lines (c.7-8mm apart) of small stitch holes (max. diameter 0.4mm, c.2mm apart) visible on Side A but not Side B; between alternate pairs of holes in both rows are indentations indicating former presence of tight running stitches: vestiges of sewing thread resemble wool under microscope; stitches may have been decorative (even dyed?) Straight hem (fig 00): rolled hem (c.5mm wide, 5mm thick) rolled to Side B, held on inner edge by row of irregular stitches, worked Z, visible on both sides: 2-ply very dark brown hairy thread (c.1.5mm thick), probably S-plied from Z-spun yarn Sewing yarn colour very dark Sewing yarn fibre wool Sewing yarn structure plied Sewing yarn twist direction S3z Sewing yarn diam 1.0 Sewing yarn 2 colour very dark brown Sewing yarn 2 structure plied Sewing yarn 2 twist direction S2z Sewing yarn 2 diameter 1.5