Vindolanda VIN TT/85/042 Wool 2/2 twill, z/s
Catalogue number
VIN TT/85/042
Inventory number
TT/85/42
Description
2/2 diamond twill with transverse border
Context
Basic information
Dimensions
L.
310
mm
W.
187
mm
Preservation state
organic
Fabric structure
2/2 twill
Twill pattern
diamond
Pattern repeat
after 12 of (1) warp, 7 of (2) weft (36+ against border) [d1r consistently]
System 1 | System 2 | Warp 2 | Suppl. yarn | |
---|---|---|---|---|
Material | wool | wool | ||
Fibre identification method | naked eye | naked eye | ||
Colour | ||||
Yarn structure | ||||
Twist strength | strong | strong | ||
Twist | z | s | ||
Twist angle average | Vindolanda VIN TT/85/042 Wool 2/2 twill, z/s | |||
Twist angle range | 38 - 40 | |||
Diameter average | ||||
Diameter range | ||||
Thread count average | 15.0 | |||
Thread count range | 13 - 14 |
FURTHER DETAILS
Borders
Transverse border: a best-fit description/interpretation of what is left of the structure of the border is as follows (fig 00): groups of 3, possibly 4, warp threads emerge from the web and return into it. On emerging from the web pairs of groups are immediately clasped by a succession of 4 cords (each 2 ply, S-twisted from 2 medium Z-spun yarns) working tabby over 1 pair and under next. At the outer edge the groups in each pair part in opposite directions and return into the tabby band (c.5mm wide) created by the 4 cords. Whether the warp at the edge of the web is re-arranged in any way to form the groups of 3-4 yarns is not clear. The cords show a possibly purple tinge to their brown colour.
The border is very badly damaged: a length of less than 20mm survives, and only a single warp thread in just one group can be seen to return into the diamond twill web, hence the tentative interpretation above. What is damaged but visible, however, does not conflict with that interpretation.
The wider significance of the border is discussed elsewhere. The single warp thread that can be seen to return into the web, and the fact that the succession of 4 binding cords work as tabby and are followed by a strip adjacent to the border in which the weave direction of the weft does not change for 36 shots (or just over 36) may be relevant. It could be a starting border rather than a binding-in finishing border.
Other features
The dark-brown textile forms a rectangle, with neat (?cut) edges.
Data recorded by
John Peter Wild
Data entered by
Bela Dimova
Date of study
1973-2020