Site Qasr Ibrim Context QI00 22028 Excavation year 2000

Dimensions L. 230 mm W. 400 mm Preservation state organic Object type garment? Relative quality fine Fabric structure tabby

Pattern Lines of undyed interlacing yarns (bundles probably of 3 single S spun yarns) form four lines, two on each side, parallel to system 1 and probably created during the weaving. (The interlacing threads appear to be exactly parallel to system 1 and were either created during the weaving or by very, very careful counting afterwards). Lines (lettered, left to right, with front facing): A. Two bundles of yarns worked Z over mostly 2 threads of system 2. Length of line 45mm. B. Two lines of interlace resembling chain stitch on front. Best preserved of the four. Length 90mm. One line of interlace made from 2 threads (each of 3 parallel yarns) interlacing Z direction over 2 or 3 threads of system 2 sharing the same hole (see drawing). The other, of same structure, interlaces S direction using the same holes i.e. 4 bundles of yarn in all. Width across: 3mm. C. Almost entirely removed, but large holes still present for yarns, after every 3 threads of system 2, c.1-1.2mm across (large enough for all the yarn bundles to pass through). Holes normally seem to be after 3 yarns of system 2, but there are indications that they are occasionally over 2 yarns of system 2. Length at least 70mm. D. Short line, badly damaged, now c.28mm long, worked S with bundle of 3 unplied yarns. Note: structure of A and D identical, and B and C identical. Line B seems to end as a single bundle of yarn against the inner blue piping. This appears to be a genuine end and suggests therefore that the 4 interlace lines are embroidery, not weaving. Presumably designed as reinforcement and added after the hems and piping were in place. Pattern element stripe Other features Measurement of garment: top to bottom 230mm, parallel to system 1 (top ripped off and raw edge). Surviving waistband length: 370mm. Width of better preserved side of waistband: 70mm Across top of codpiece apron (between angles of waistband): 175mm Original length of side of apron before sewing up: 145mm. Hole at end of codpiece (as flattened): 70mm externally, probably c.60mm internally. Wear: down centre of front is a line where system 2 has been almost completely abraded away. Varies in width from 12-20mm. Runs top and bottom and coincides with a gash in the top of the surviving area of the waistband. there is a damaged strip, much less severely worn, across the top of the apron from angle to angle of the waistband.

Description A single piece of cloth, now fastened corner to corner behind the lowest point, with two passes of Z plied ?3 ply sewing yarn (knot visible). Blue piping: rolled hems c.4mm along lower part of each waist strap, down sides of front and across bottom (the two lower corners were later brought together and oversewn to form a hole). On back of hem, usual two lines of stitching visible in 3 ply thread. Outermost holds the hem, innermost secures inner piping. Externalpiping almost entirely vanished, but occasional anchoring blue pairs visible on external hem edge. Traces of core cord probably visible (but couldn’t check without causing too much damage). Inner piping built of 3 pairs of S spun blue yarns, used as pair but cord as a whole Z twisted. At least in one place, same pair held twice in succession by the 3 ply thread on the back. Thickness of cord 1.8mm. At bottom of better preserved side of waistband c.30mm from its torn end, the hem (excluding the piping) has been oversewn by 15+ passes of Z plied 3 ply thread. The external piping may have been worn off already when this reinforcement was added, therefore = a repair. Structural ✓ Decorative ✓ Repair ✓ Types of stitch , oversewing