Site Qasr Ibrim Context QI00 22028 Excavation year 2000

Preservation state organic Object type garment - hood? Relative quality fine Fabric structure tabby

Other features Measured flat and seen from side: length from peak to bottom raw edge at back: 510mm front to back along apex: 135mm. down front, along surviving piping from apex to lowest surviving point on textile: 345mm, of which straight section framing the face is 150mm. From this point (an obtuse angle) another 195mm to surviving bottom edge. Other side of face, c.150mm to angle, then c.110mm to point where it breaks off. Shoulder tuck, measured from front hem is 185mm long, 100mm to an obtuse angle, then c.75mm to end of tuck i.e. point of shoulder. Measured along the raw edge from front round the back as far as it goes: 310mm. The extra tuck on front corner is 50mm long. 3-dimensionality: measured flat, the shoulder-peak (end of tuck) is c.40mm From the nearest point on the back centre fold. When pulled up that point is about 65mm from the end of the shoulder-tuck i.e. inside the textile at that point The shape is roughly conical. The neck-tuck also covers a slight cone.

Description External piping seems to be the same throughout. The piping cord consists of 3 strands, each consisting of 3 S spun yarns, S plied together before being incorporated into the Z twisted cord, i.e. there are 9 S spun yarns altogether. The cord is anchored by one of the 3 yarn strands, but apparently not the same strand performing this function every time. The strands seem to be used as anchor by turns, but regular pattern not now analyzable. Analysis of the one accessible end of the hem found no identifiable 3 strand core cord. Inner piping cord (also undyed) also consists of 3 strands, each S plied from 3 S spun yarns. The cord from the back clasps a piping strand and returns immediately, but it is not the same piping strand every time, but the following piping strand, i.e. it clasps piping strands 1, 2 and 3 in sequence. As usual, there are two lines of stitching visible on the reverse, the first secures the hem, the second clasps the inner piping strands. The apex: the two hems are held together back to back with a row of running stitches through the hem in 3 ply undyed yarn. Then, in three places, at intervals of 37mm, the hems are oversewn with blue stitching. The stitching is very worn but seems to consist mainly of two thick strands composed of a number of 2 plied Z plies passing through and over the outer edge of the hems, excluding the inner piping. There are traces of another blue fixing at the front, but none at the peak, which is, in any case, damaged. There are traces of some kind of bobble in undyed yarns at the peak, but nature unclear. Shaping tuck for shoulders: varies from 8mm-12mm wide on point of shoulder. The tuck is created by inserting a fold into the fabric once and securing the resulting two folded edges with rough oversewing in pale cotton yarn. On upper edge stitches at 9-12mm intervals, in weakly Z plied 2 ply S spun yarn, max. diam. 1.2mm. Lower edge (on outer side) in probably same yarn, but it has come unplied and is a pair. Stitches at 10mm intervals. Stitches worked Z. Upper line more clearly visible from inside of garment, lower line from outside. On inside, at shoulder peak end, there is start of the stitching secured by 2 passes of the overstitching (see drawing). The stitching at the front of the tuck adjoining the hems is too badly preserved to define clearly, nor is the T-junction of the shoulder tuck and the neck tuck clear. Neck tuck: survives c.90mm long, but broken at point of junction with shoulder tuck. Tuck construction and construction materials identical to those of shoulder tuck. Tuck 9mm wide at maximum (i.e. at the break). Piped hem does not appear to continue below the point of junction between the tucks, but the front of the garment is torn away here. Structural ✓ Decorative ✓