Site Vesuvian area Context Vesuvian area Site phase

Object condition fragmentary Preservation state carbonised Object type Textile Fabric structure 2/2 twill

Edges Needlework edging: the edging resembles a narrow tape in tabby weave on the obverse face of the fragment, with closely spaced, large plain overcast stitches perpendicular to the edge on the reverse face; 9 continuous 'warp' elements are running parallel to the edge, 3 threads running along reverse side of edge, 2 thread along the cross section and 4 threads along the obverse side of edge; These elements are intersected orthogonally by more widely spaced threads, following a 1:1 tabby weave ratio, which are clearly visible on the reverse of the textile. Fleece analysis The fibres have an average diameter of 25 μm (min. 11 – max. 31 μm). Where observable, the scales have smooth edges. Within the sample, elements with a diameter greater than 25 μm show the disappearance of the central medulla. The carbonisation stage of the yarn used for the fabric edges is markedly advanced: the fibres exhibit altered morphology, an almost complete loss of surface scales, and fracture and fusion phenomena. Quality: AAA2 (Classification method: Rast-Eicher 2008, Coletti 2025, p. 59).

Sewing yarn fibre wool Sewing yarn structure plied Sewing yarn twist direction S2z Sewing yarn min diameter 0.3 - 0.4