Pompeii 18056 (type 8) 2/2 weft-faced twill (tight)
Catalogue number
Ts 220
Inventory number
18056
Holding institution
Archaeological Park of Pompeii
Description
Semicircular cloak.
10 fragments. Max. dimension 9,3 x 10 cm; Min. dimension 1,7 x 1 cm.
The threads are smooth, and the fibres lie parallel within the threads.
The textile shows needle-worked edges and areas where mending and reinforcement interventions can be identified.
Context
Basic information
Object condition
fragmentary
Preservation state
carbonised
Object type
cloak
Fabric structure
2/2 weft-faced twill
Warp and weft identified
✓
| System 1 | System 2 | Warp 2 | Suppl. yarn | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Material | wool | wool | ||
| Fibre identification method | SEM | SEM | ||
| Colour | ||||
| Yarn structure | plied | single | ||
| Twist strength | ||||
| Twist | S2z | z | ||
| Twist angle average | ||||
| Twist angle range | 40 | 36 - 38 | ||
| Diameter average | ||||
| Diameter range | 0.2 - 0.3 | 0.2 | ||
| Thread count average | ||||
| Thread count range | 30 | 62 |
FURTHER DETAILS
Pattern
One fragment (9.3 × 10 cm) shows a decorative tapestry band 1.2 cm high with raised longitudinal margins, executed using different weft threads.
Pattern element
band
Fleece analysis
The fibres have an average diameter of 22 μm (min. 13 – max. 30 μm). Where preserved, the scales show prominent margins with smooth edges and are arranged in a mosaic-like pattern.
Quality: AAA+, 95% < 25 µm (Classification method: Rast-Eicher 2008, Coletti 2025, p. 59
Sewing
Description
Mending and reinforcement interventions can be identified. Traces of mending carried out using a technique comparable to the “couching stitch” are documented on five fragments. This method consists of threads laid on the textile surface and secured by short intersecting stitches passing beneath two weft threads. The yarn is clearly visible on only one side of the fabric, where its sinuous, “serpentine” course can be observed. The threads applied in this manner are fixed with knots, occasionally identifiable among the dense weft threads.
Repair
✓
Types of stitch
couching
Sewing yarn fibre
wool
Sewing yarn structure
single
Sewing yarn twist direction
z
Sewing yarn diam
0.3
References
Coletti, Francesca. I tessuti di Pompei e d’Area Vesuviana. A3TEX Series, I. Roma: Edizioni Quasar, 2025.
Data recorded by
Francesca Coletti
Data entered by
Francesca Coletti
Date of study
2019