Site Pompeii Context Pompeii

Object condition fragmentary Preservation state carbonised Object type cloak Fabric structure 2/2 weft-faced twill Warp and weft identified ✓

Edges Needlework edging: the edging resembles a narrow tape in tabby weave on the obverse face of the fragment, with closely spaced, large plain overcast stitches perpendicular to the edge on the reverse face; 9 continuous 'warp' elements are running parallel to the edge, 3 threads running along reverse side of edge, 2 thread along the cross section and 4 threads along the obverse side of edge; These elements are intersected orthogonally by more widely spaced threads, following a 1:1 tabby weave ratio, which are clearly visible on the reverse of the textile. Fleece analysis The fibres have an average diameter of 21 μm (min. 16 – max. 37 μm). Where observable, the scales are prominent with smooth edges. Quality: AAA+, 95% < 25 µm (Classification method: Rast-Eicher 2008, Coletti 2025, p. 60).

Description Mending and reinforcement interventions can be identified. One fragment (6 x 5,4 cm) preserves herringbone/fishbone stitch. In addition, numerous holes left by sewing threads are visible across the textile surface. Traces of mending carried out using a technique comparable to the “couching stitch” are documented. This method consists of threads laid on the textile surface and secured by short intersecting stitches passing beneath two weft threads. The yarn is clearly visible on only one side of the fabric, where its sinuous, “serpentine” course can be observed. The threads applied in this manner are fixed with knots, occasionally identifiable among the dense weft threads. Repair ✓ Types of stitch overcast stitch , herringbone stitch , couching Sewing yarn fibre wool Sewing yarn structure plied Sewing yarn twist direction S2z Sewing yarn min diameter 0.4 - 0.5 Sewing yarn 2 fibre wool Sewing yarn 2 structure single Sewing yarn 2 twist direction z Sewing yarn 2 diameter 0.4 Sewing yarn 3 structure single